Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, and Africa, in the Seventeenth Century, Vol. II — Inside the Classic
Edition facts
Evliya Çelebi’s second volume opens with a meticulous inventory of Brussa: its mosques, baths, markets, and the tombs of early Ottoman sultans. The catalog-like structure—each entry headed by a formulaic “Description of…”—gives way to more fluid travelogue as the route moves eastward. A recurring pattern emerges: the traveler notes a fortress’s dimensions and garrison, then records a feast or gift exchange with local officials. The prose oscillates between dry enumeration (seven mosques, three baths) and vivid detail, such as the “ice-worm” or the “fine and brilliant eyes” of Persian women. This rhythm of measurement and marvel shapes the entire work.
Fortress and Feast: A Recurring Narrative Pattern
Throughout the excerpts, Çelebi repeatedly describes a castle or town in terms of its defensive features—square stone walls, garrison size, cannon salutes—then immediately recounts a banquet hosted by the local Agha. At Karish, the castle is “square and built of stone, an elegant yet strong fortress” with a thousand troops; the Agha then offers “eleven sorts of pilaw” and gifts of leopard skins. The same structure appears at Trebisonde and other stops. This pairing suggests that for Çelebi, military architecture and hospitality are twin markers of a place’s standing. The feasts are not mere diversions but part of the diplomatic and social fabric he navigates as an envoy.
Baths, Springs, and the Body’s Geography
Çelebi devotes unusual attention to thermal springs and baths, describing their chemical qualities (sulphurous, hot) and therapeutic uses. In Brussa he praises the baths at length, naming individual springs like Chekirgeh Sultán and New Kaplíjeh. Later, near Nicomedia, he notes a mineral spring’s “qualities.” These passages stand out for their sensory detail—heat, smell, curative claims—and for how they anchor the narrative in bodily experience. The baths also serve as social spaces: they are listed among the city’s monuments alongside mosques and khans. This focus on water and washing offers a counterpoint to the drier architectural inventories, grounding the travelogue in the traveler’s own physical journey.
Movement Between Scenes: From Ruins to Gardens
Çelebi’s transitions are often abrupt, leaping from ruined towns to lush gardens without connective tissue. At Karish, he notes that the town “is now in ruins” from a past revolt, then immediately describes a feast in a garden with “a beautiful view.” At Uch Kilisse, three convents perched on a mountain host “forty or fifty thousand Infidels” for an annual carpet ceremony, yet the next sentence returns to the road. These shifts create a mosaic effect: decay and abundance, ascetic nuns and lavish dinners, all coexist without explicit commentary. The reader moves with Çelebi from one vivid scene to the next, guided by itinerary rather than argument.
Numbers, Names, and the Texture of Authority
Çelebi peppers his account with precise figures: “thirteen hours,” “eighteen guns,” “one thousand loaves of white bread,” “seven mosques with minarehs.” These numbers lend an air of documentary reliability, yet they also serve a rhetorical purpose—establishing the scale of a place or the generosity of a host. He also names officials and tribes (Dizchoken Túlúnkí, Kelenter) with care, embedding himself in a network of political and military titles. The effect is a world thick with hierarchy and measurement, where every fortress has a commander and every feast a count of dishes. This quantitative texture reinforces Çelebi’s persona as a reliable witness, even as the marvels he recounts strain credibility.
Readers should attend to the interplay between formula and spontaneity. Çelebi’s set-piece descriptions—of mosques, baths, castles—provide a stable framework, while the anecdotes of feasts, gifts, and curiosities inject unpredictability. The volume rewards those who follow the itinerary closely, noting how the same narrative patterns recur across different regions. The translator’s 19th-century English adds a layer of formality, but the underlying voice remains that of a curious, status-conscious traveler moving through a world of protocol and surprise.
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